Last Day in Split, Croatia

June 29, 2019

I was sad to wake up this morning and leave my cabin. It was such an amazing cruise that I did not want it to end. Katarina Cruise Line definitely knows how to island hop along the Dalmatian Coast and I will continue to send my clients here for their vacations. I will most likely send more because this trip taught me more about Katarina that I didn’t know before, like their 60 different ships and they are definitely each for a different kind of traveler and budget. Thank you Katarina Line for this wonderful experience!

Off to spend the day in Split, my flight is at 7:40pm so I booked a culinary tour this morning!

Off to the fish market to choose what we will be eating for our lunch today.

We took a whole bunch of these “scampi” as they call them here. Just like large head on shrimp but with a harder shell more like a crawfish and a bit bigger.

There was so much to choose from, and so many new things that I don’t see in the markets at home. It was very exciting to learn about some of the local seafood and how they prepare it. I also loved how a lot of the seafood is prepared with lots of garlic, olive oil and parsley!!

I chose a nice plump and bright red Scorpionfish, excited to try it, a popular choice among locals here.

This lady was so sweet, she packs all of those jars of anchovies herself. She showed us how she salts them and then how she uses special oil, etc. She let us try them first, nothing like the anchovies you buy in a can that are too salty! These had flavor and meatiness to them, I bought a few jars. I am sure my son Rowan will love these, he started eating anchovies at 2 years old-so an extra jar for him.

The stories about the locals were just as much fun as learning about the fish! This guy has been here every day for 30 something years, the only English he knows is, “the fish is very very fresh” and he was very proud to proclaim it about his offerings.

It took a while but I finally got this gruff monger to smile for the picture.

One of my choices is the local tuna, she is filleting the fish I chose. I had the local tuna sashimi style in Dubrovnik and it was amazing, so I’ll try it grilled with garlic, olive oil and parsley.

Back to the kitchen to drop off our fish choices and then to the green market.

We had some time in between so slowly made it to the market as we stopped along the way to appreciate the beauty of Split.

I love the Austrian influence of this building that was from the Hapsburg rule that occurred after the Venetian rule ended when Venice fell to Napoleon. You feel like you are in Vienna here.

The outer edges of Diocletian’s Palace and one of the four gates that allow entry into the city.

Made it to the green market, another shopping adventure.

We dropped off our vegetables and told them what time we wanted to enjoy lunch. Then off for more exploring.

We ventured out of Diocletian’s Palace to an area higher up with beautiful views of Split and the perfect cafe for a well needed iced coffee.

We worked up a hunger going up all those steps and incline in the heat. Looking forward to lunch and a glass of wine!

Split is a beautiful place.

I found a mini-Stanley in a shop in town. He was so adorable!

The Game of Thrones and Harry Potter Store.

Lunchtime!! Diocletian’s Wine House is a beautiful restaurant right in the palace walls. There’s inside seating with air conditioning and outside seating. Since it was in the nineties today, we opted for inside!

Here is one page of their menu, but we had a custom menu made for us!

Scorpionfish with lemon and seasonal vegetables wrapped in a flaky phyllo packet was probably the best fish dish I’ve ever had in a restaurant!

The grilled local tuna and vegetables was really tasty.

Buzara is a very popular Croatian dish served along the coast. It’s the scampi shrimp I described above with mussels and baby clams. They are cooked in a lot of garlic, wine, olive oil and parsley. There is also a little tomato and fresh breadcrumbs that thicken the sauce. Dipping the fresh made crunchy loaf of bread into the bowl was heaven.

The sad part of the trip, heading to the airport to leave this area of the world that I absolutely adored! So I checked the weather at my next destination…..

Looks chilly to me! 😬

The airport in Split is very small and they are in dire need of an upgrade and expansion. It was crowded and hot and once you went through security, no bar, no seats available and no plugs to charge anything! I did find two plugs that worked but there was a line if people for each! So I sat on the floor and hoped that my three hours would go quickly.

Off to Moscow with a terrible airplane meal, thankfully I was so exhausted I slept most of the almost 4 hours.

Bol & Omiš, Croatia

June 28, 2019

We woke up to a beautiful day but very windy. Everyone was excited to go to the Great Horn beach in Bol on the island of Brac. Unfortunately we were not able to due to the high winds.

The two pics below are of the famous beach from above-not my pictures.

We were scheduled to spend the whole morning at this beach and swim. We were so disappointed but of course understood.

The wind was so strong we couldn’t even sit out on the sundeck!

Thankfully it still was a beautiful day so the Captain cruised to the other side of the island that was protected from the wind and we searched for a place to swim now that it is calm.

Everyone is looking and eagerly waiting to swim!

This area looks pretty good.

We’re all like little kids who can’t wait to play!

Our lunch today was amazing! Gnocchi in a Parmesan sauce and baby lamb chops, which I really don’t like but enjoyed these!

Omiš is our stop after lunch, it is back on the mainland not far south of Split.

Look at the dot right above Splitska, that is Omiš at the mouth of the Centine River.

View from above (not my picture)

Time for an afternoon of river rafting on the Cetine River!

It started out calm but it was so hot out we couldn’t wait to get splashed.

And cool off with a swim!

Morena jumping off the rock.

Ready to go!

So much fun and the perfect weather.

Getting ready for the Captain’s Dinner tonight, our last night.

Cocktails to start

Beautiful sunset as we arrive into Split, our final stop and where we started.

The dining room set up nicely for the special dinner.

Captain Dino makes his speech

Local Tuna Carpaccio

Mussels

Captain Dino’s favorite local musicians. They were really good and fun! Everyone enjoyed their entertainment during dinner.

Seared Local Sea Bass

Molten Chocolate Cake

Fun times dancing then a trip into Split.

Wandering through the maze of Diocletian’s Palace.

This picture came out better than the one I was taking.

Not easy to find your ship when they are all tied together so you have to walk through each one to get to the next-and they all look similar!

Travel to Split

June 25, 2019

The coastal road between Dubrovnik and Split is just breathtaking! A curvy two lane road that winds along the edge of cliffs with the beautiful Adriatic alongside you. There are also many areas with pine trees so you’ll smell the scent of pine mixed in with the fresh sea air. I usually don’t like roads like this, they make me nervous but for some reason I’m totally content and enjoying the ride. Pepo, my driver, is good company and drives this road every day so his high speed isn’t bothering me.

We crossed the border into Bosnia-Herzegovina and stopped for coffee. There was a cafe with a beautiful terrace over a harbor. We stretched our legs and had some good strong coffee. The drive between Dubrovnik and Split is about 3-4 hours and can be longer depending on the border crossings. You have to go from Croatia, cross the border into Bosnia then cross back into Croatia. Luckily we didn’t wait more than 15 minutes at each crossing-good timing I guess. Croatia is building a bridge from the mainland across a waterway to their peninsula that juts out close to the Bosnian Coast. We could see all the construction and when it’s finished it will make it so much easier to go from Dubrovnik to Split-no border crossings.

Wow it’s hot! There’s a heat wave in all of Europe right now. While I had fun staying in Kotor and Dubrovnik, I am relieved to get on a boat! I am cruising with Katarina Line Cruises, a Croatian company that I have done business with for my clients. They have great itineraries and have been in business almost 30 years. You really need to see the Dalmatian Islands from a yacht. Taking days trips by ferry is tiring and no fun. We boarded the MS Maritimo, a beautiful boat that has 19 cabins with a max of 38 passengers – we were 24 travel agents on this trip. It’s always so exciting to board and explore!

I unpacked quickly and love my cabin! There’s so much room and it’s cool and quiet. Nice to stay in one place for 5 days.

Now off to explore Split for a few hours before we all meet up at 5pm for the first time.

In the fourth century, Roman emperor Diocletian retired and built a residence for his retirement in his native Dalmatia. When Rome fell, the palace was abandoned. Eventually, a medieval town built up from the abandoned palace. Today the maze of narrow alleys, which were Diocletian’s actual hallways, make up the core of Split. The residents of Split are actually living in a Roman emperor’s palace. Diocletian’s Palace is one of the largest and best-preserved examples of Roman architecture in the world. 

One thing I noticed when looking at pictures of Split and Dubrovnik was that the streets always looked wet. Either that or too many filters, but I couldn’t figure it out. Now that I am here and I am slipping and dragging my feet over the super polished limestone, I understand. It is as smooth as glass from the thousands of years of footsteps, pretty amazing when you think about it.

Notice that some of the columns are darker, they are red granite from Egypt.

The Peristyle was Diocletian’s main square and still has the feeling of the center of everything. A Peristyle was an inner courtyard with columns that surround it, a place for relaxation for the Emperor and also as a place for religious and other public events.

There are two Sphinx still in Split, there were originally twelve and are made of black granite. both are from Egypt and dated at about 3500 years old. The other one is in front of the Temple of Jupiter and is decapitated. As Christianity spread through the region, they destroyed anything that was Pagan but this one survived.

The Temple of Jupiter and the other Sphinx.

The domed Vestibule is one of the most important parts of Diocletian’s original palace. It used to be the dramatic entry into his private residence. Now, because of its great acoustics, cappella singers perform Dalmatian folk music.

There are four gates that allow entrance into the palace and each one leads to the Peristyle dividing the palace into quarters.

This is a rendering of the what the palace looked like.

This is a picture (not mine) of it today from above.

Time to head back to the yacht to meet everyone. Definitely felt great to get out of the heat. The ship is really pretty and very comfortable.

One of my favorite areas, great to grab coffee in the morning and sit back here before breakfast.

The cabins are very modern and have lots of space and light.

Deck plan of our vessel MS Maritimo

First night dinner onboard and meetup with the other guests.

Dinner was very good, gazpacho, beet carpaccio, veal and dessert.

Time to go back out to town to experience Split at night.