Moscow, Russia

June 30, 2019

Arrival into Moscow’s Sheremetyevo Airport was a nice change from the airport in Split! Plus there were many airport clubs!!!

First thing I did was eat after the horrible dinner served.

Cabbage Pie, Lentil Soup, coffee, wine and sparkling water at 1am.

Just what I needed after my nap.

The club was nice and well needed!

Nothing feels better than a shower after a long flight. It woke me up and got me recharged for visiting Russia for the first time.

My little towel and amenity package.

I better be ready for this, it’s been in the mid nineties all week!

I tried to order a car around 3:30am but Uber here requires you to update and get their new app. The cell signal was terrible down here and I couldn’t get on their WiFi. So then I went to the other app my guide recommended a few weeks ago. But ordering a car used my credit card, and even though I had a travel notice for Russia it didn’t look legitimate to the bank. So of course I tried again, not a good idea. Next I asked the taxi company desk and they wanted 1600 Rubles ($25) but I had only taken out 1200 Rubles, because I didn’t think I would need cash because of the apps and would get cash in the city rather than the airport. So after a few minutes the guy felt bad for me and tried to order a taxi from his app, but I couldn’t pay for it. So he was helping me get it working on my phone….an hour later I was about to walk out and pay the tourist rate and my phone service got better and I was able to order the taxi, for 700 Rubles!!

My driver was a tall Asian-ish looking guy, he drove very fast but was nice. We did our best to communicate but it was tough going back and forth, I just gave up. We made it into Moscow in less than a half hour.

Wow it was cold when I got out of the car! The forties feel real different after being in the nineties for the last week and living in California. Plus it was damp, had rained earlier in the evening so the dampness made it feel colder.

I thought I remembered everything for today, even had a warm jacket….but I forgot shoes, I had on flip flops. My feet were freezing and I felt like people were looking at me…or my feet!

The Moscow Metro map

The sun was rising and the streets were fairly empty save for a few late night partiers. I started with a walk down Tverskaya Street, Moscow’s version of Champs-Élysées, through the city towards the Kremlin and Red Square.

The most beautiful supermarket I’ve ever seen is Yeliseev’s Food Hall! It was also one of the first supermarkets in the world.

It’s not only beautiful but has some amazing products here, I wish o could ship and bring home some groceries!

It was once the home of Russian Princess Zinaida Volkonskayause. The crystal chandeliers, traditional wooden cases and elaborately-carved pillars are beautiful.

Continuing my walk down Tverskaya Street.

Approaching the Kremlin

Looking at the State Historical Museum of Russia with Red Square behind it.

Looking at the Kremlin buildings, Red Square is right behind that building.

This building below you should recognize but probably won’t. Currently it is the Four Seasons Hotel.

Here is how you will recognize it:

My first glimpse of St. Basil’s Cathedral in the distance!

Surrounded by the Kremlin in Red Square

Ruins Grotto in Alexander Gardens is a monument to the victory over Napoleon, this is actual rubble from buildings attacked by Napoleon’s forces.

This was a monument to the House of Romanov to commemorate the 300 years of the reign of the Romanov dynasty. But after the revolution, the monarchy monument turned into the revolutionary one-the names of the Romanovs were replaced with the names of revolutionary figures of all time; and the remaining attributes of the previous government were eliminated.

Alexander Gardens stretchs along all the length of the western Kremlin wall and was the first public park in Moscow. It’s beautiful and a great respite from the city.

Resurrection Gate to Red Square-see St. Basil’s in the right arch.

Quick stop for breakfast and coffee. Syrniki (сырники) are slightly sweet cheesy Russian pancakes served with sour cream or fresh fruit, they were tasty.

Kazan Cathedral Казанский собор, love how colorful it is.

Below is the State Historical Museum of Russia.

GUM is the main department store in many cities of the former Soviet Union it was known as State Department Store during the Soviet era. This one in Red Square is the most popular and beautiful.

This is the part I have been soooo excited about!!! Seeing St. Basil’s Cathedral. My guide Mariam was great, I learned so much about history and events that happened here.

Lenin’s Tomb where his body has been preserved and on display since he died in 1924, I didn’t get to see it because it wasn’t open yet.

Benefits of being here at 5am!

Check this off my travel bucket list! Looking up at St. Basil’s Cathedral as it looms majestically over Red Square with the Kremlin and Lenin’s Tomb surrounding me was overwhelming. Standing where countless historical and political events in history have occurred was surreal!

It is so beautiful-the colors and the onion domes! It is actually smaller than I pictured but just as impressive.

The Moscow Metro has beautiful stations. This wasn’t even one of the pretty ones but still impressive.

Too the Aeroexpress back to the airport to avoid traffic.

Has to bring home Russian vodka.

Matryoshka are the wooden dolls that are all different sizes and nested inside each other.

You have to drink vodka in Russia, right?

Finally heading home 💗

Our route over the arctic.

There’s Los Angeles

Would you believe they lost my luggage again????

Last Day in Split, Croatia

June 29, 2019

I was sad to wake up this morning and leave my cabin. It was such an amazing cruise that I did not want it to end. Katarina Cruise Line definitely knows how to island hop along the Dalmatian Coast and I will continue to send my clients here for their vacations. I will most likely send more because this trip taught me more about Katarina that I didn’t know before, like their 60 different ships and they are definitely each for a different kind of traveler and budget. Thank you Katarina Line for this wonderful experience!

Off to spend the day in Split, my flight is at 7:40pm so I booked a culinary tour this morning!

Off to the fish market to choose what we will be eating for our lunch today.

We took a whole bunch of these “scampi” as they call them here. Just like large head on shrimp but with a harder shell more like a crawfish and a bit bigger.

There was so much to choose from, and so many new things that I don’t see in the markets at home. It was very exciting to learn about some of the local seafood and how they prepare it. I also loved how a lot of the seafood is prepared with lots of garlic, olive oil and parsley!!

I chose a nice plump and bright red Scorpionfish, excited to try it, a popular choice among locals here.

This lady was so sweet, she packs all of those jars of anchovies herself. She showed us how she salts them and then how she uses special oil, etc. She let us try them first, nothing like the anchovies you buy in a can that are too salty! These had flavor and meatiness to them, I bought a few jars. I am sure my son Rowan will love these, he started eating anchovies at 2 years old-so an extra jar for him.

The stories about the locals were just as much fun as learning about the fish! This guy has been here every day for 30 something years, the only English he knows is, “the fish is very very fresh” and he was very proud to proclaim it about his offerings.

It took a while but I finally got this gruff monger to smile for the picture.

One of my choices is the local tuna, she is filleting the fish I chose. I had the local tuna sashimi style in Dubrovnik and it was amazing, so I’ll try it grilled with garlic, olive oil and parsley.

Back to the kitchen to drop off our fish choices and then to the green market.

We had some time in between so slowly made it to the market as we stopped along the way to appreciate the beauty of Split.

I love the Austrian influence of this building that was from the Hapsburg rule that occurred after the Venetian rule ended when Venice fell to Napoleon. You feel like you are in Vienna here.

The outer edges of Diocletian’s Palace and one of the four gates that allow entry into the city.

Made it to the green market, another shopping adventure.

We dropped off our vegetables and told them what time we wanted to enjoy lunch. Then off for more exploring.

We ventured out of Diocletian’s Palace to an area higher up with beautiful views of Split and the perfect cafe for a well needed iced coffee.

We worked up a hunger going up all those steps and incline in the heat. Looking forward to lunch and a glass of wine!

Split is a beautiful place.

I found a mini-Stanley in a shop in town. He was so adorable!

The Game of Thrones and Harry Potter Store.

Lunchtime!! Diocletian’s Wine House is a beautiful restaurant right in the palace walls. There’s inside seating with air conditioning and outside seating. Since it was in the nineties today, we opted for inside!

Here is one page of their menu, but we had a custom menu made for us!

Scorpionfish with lemon and seasonal vegetables wrapped in a flaky phyllo packet was probably the best fish dish I’ve ever had in a restaurant!

The grilled local tuna and vegetables was really tasty.

Buzara is a very popular Croatian dish served along the coast. It’s the scampi shrimp I described above with mussels and baby clams. They are cooked in a lot of garlic, wine, olive oil and parsley. There is also a little tomato and fresh breadcrumbs that thicken the sauce. Dipping the fresh made crunchy loaf of bread into the bowl was heaven.

The sad part of the trip, heading to the airport to leave this area of the world that I absolutely adored! So I checked the weather at my next destination…..

Looks chilly to me! 😬

The airport in Split is very small and they are in dire need of an upgrade and expansion. It was crowded and hot and once you went through security, no bar, no seats available and no plugs to charge anything! I did find two plugs that worked but there was a line if people for each! So I sat on the floor and hoped that my three hours would go quickly.

Off to Moscow with a terrible airplane meal, thankfully I was so exhausted I slept most of the almost 4 hours.

Russia to Montenegro

June 23, 2019

It was a quick transit in the airport and I was onboard the next flight. We took a 737 to Tivat Airport near Kotor, Montenegro.

Flight was about 3 and a half hours and I slept most of it, after I had lunch-third time having fish but it seemed to be the better choice!

Arrival into Tivat was quick and easy except for the fact that my luggage wasn’t there.

I spent about 45 minutes in the lost and found department then the Aeroflot desk and back-and-forth with no answer, call tomorrow. So I left disappointed and hopeful that I get my luggage. Thankfully I always take a bathing suit, a dress and a few things to hold me over for a day.

So where is Montenegro?

Very excited to see Montenegro, it’s been on my list for quite a few years. Montenegro is one of Europe’s youngest nations, it only gained its independence in 2006 and has become very popular. Just south of Croatia and a bit exotic, Montenegro isn’t as flashy as Croatia’s famous Dalmatian Coast and noticeable less affluent. But it does have dramatic scenery with rugged mountains and a sun drenched coast line that has seen it’s share of rulers from different empires-Venetian, Austrian and Russian to Bulgarian and even Napoleon. While I am seeing the beautiful and history villages of Montenegro, there are many the still have the drab and gritty Yugoslav era look.

My hotel is an old stone building that is about 600 years old and was once the home of nobility. The current owners keep it beautiful and full of antiques of the period.

I love my room, it’s so atmospheric and it’s right in the middle of the old town. The old town is surrounded by walls and is pedestrian only.

The great wall of Kotor is nearly 3 miles long and sits on extremely inaccessible terrain, it was built between the 9th and 19th centuries. Thickness varies from 6 to 50 feet and tallest parts are 65 feet high.

Old town‘s maze like street plan is confusing, but it’s so small and atmospheric that getting lost is fun! Cafes and bars spill out into the squares and tangled alleys, pretty little shops in between. As the streets get narrower, the shops get more interesting.

Kotor has a rich history as a heavily fortified commercial port since Medieval times. It was one of the most important trading centers in this area of the Adriatic Coast. Sometimes called a “little Dubrovnik” but is more low key, less historic, and much smaller than its neighbor.

Wandering around in the evening was so beautiful, the city looks so different in the golden light. I sat in a beautiful square and listened to live jazz music and had the most delicious dinner-Gnocchi with truffles and shrimp!

Long Flight to the Balkans

June 22, 2019

Check in for my Aeroflot flight to Moscow was pretty long…

But I did have time to relax in the airport lounge and have a cocktail. I also arranged my new travel accessory – Seat Pak Pro.

You take this out of your carry-on as it has all the things you need for the flight.

This large pocket holds a headset, warm socks, plugs, tissues and vodka-more about that later.

The other side holds things like chapstick, moisturizer, eye drops, ear plugs, blinders, etc.

There is also a padded pocket for a kindle or iPad.

Early boarding was quick and flight crew were friendly.

Comfort Class was nice on this Boeing 777. The seat didn’t go back as much as I hoped but it did have a nice extendable foot rest.

The amenity pack has the essentials.

Toothbrush kits in the bathroom.

There are two main meals but both dinner, usually the second is breakfast on long haul flights, but I don’t mind.

First meal was actually good, the Chilean Sea Bass was cooked perfectly-that was a nice surprise!

After dinner I went to sleep, I didn’t notice what time it was but I think I slept about 5-6 hours. I woke up to meal 2 being served. I didn’t have much of an appetite yet.

The salmon wasn’t as good as the bass but not bad-considering it’s airplane food.

About the vodka…Aeroflot had stopped serving alcohol on its flights a while back because of too many incidents with drunk and belligerent passengers. Now they serve it again but only beer and wine. So not knowing the quality of the wine they serve, I opted to have a back up!

I arrived at Sheremetyevo Airport in Moscow around 3:30am Los Angeles time and 1:30pm the next day in Russia.