Chongqing, Last Day in China, Monday, April 9, 2018

We woke up the same way we always do on the last day of a cruise, boys didn’t want to get up didn’t want it to end…

We said our goodbyes at breakfast and headed out for the day, our flight wasn’t until 4 o’clock in the afternoon.

Chongqing is a picturesque mountain city located at the confluence of the Yangtze and Jialing rivers. It is the largest city in China at 34 million people! It’s far inland in the Sichuan province, known for their spicy Szechuan food, and it was really good!

Chongqings name was formerly romanized as Chungking and ranks 8th in the world for number of skyscrapers. We saw construction on many, so they are still building.

We decided to go to the zoo since they are famous for the Giant Pandas. I am not a fan of zoos and usually get sad seeing the animals in captivity but due to researchand decades of conservation efforts, the Giant Panda has been recently removed from the endangered species list.

They were heavily poached in the 80’s and that has drastically decreased as their protected habitat has greatly expanded. There are an estimated 1,850 Giant Pandas in the wild bamboo forests and 67 Pandas Reserves in China which are like our National Parks.

So in this case we are there seeing the success of their breeding program instead of looking at an animal in a cage for only our enjoyment. The Pandas are in a specially designed garden habitat that emulates their natural environment with all kinds of bamboo-their favorite food-and trees to climb, pools and other types of play structures. They were very active and playful when we saw them in the morning. They were climbing trees, bridges and the babies were wrestling! They had a set of 1 year old twins there that were so cute and playful. Twins only survive at the zoo because in the wild the mother will only take care of the stronger one so one of them dies.

We spent time on the cruise with Madhu and Sham, a really nice couple from Chicago and they loved the boys.

Time to head to the airport, we have a 3 hour flight to Beijing, then a 12 hour flight back to LAX-not looking forward to it….

Food choices on Air China were the usual airline food but Chinese offerings. It was a meat or seafood with either rice or noodles. The noodles were like over cooked spaghetti but the rice was perfectly cooked sticky white rice, so I stuck with those choices that had rice. Grant had the seafood and noodles and said it wasn’t bad. The side dishes were interesting and I didn’t know what most were, but I ate it anyway. The boys would stock up at the airport lounge on the instant noodles. There were so many varieties, they would have one at the lounge, then bring one for the flight.

We were served breakfast before we landed at 10pm in LAX, it felt like breakfast since I slept 9 of the 12 hours of the flight. This was the only time we were offered a Western meal, they asked Western or Eastern breakfast? We would have opted for the Eastern, it was congee, which we love, but we saw it and it looked terrible-Western please.

Global Entry made it an easy transition back into the beautiful United States of America. Our trip was a trip of a lifetime and we relish every memory and experience we had, but it really makes you appreciate the life, the luxuries and most importantly the freedoms we have in America 🇺🇸

Last Day of Cruise, Shibaozhai, Sunday, April 8, 2018

Today is our last full day, everyone is a little bit sad. But we have the whole day to enjoy and are excited to see the Shibaozhai temple this morning.

The town was strange because it originally was lower at the bank of the river before they flooded it with the dam. So they’ve built up higher to make up for the buildings they lost, but no one really moved into them. All of the young people are moving away and the older people are still running the stands for tourists. They don’t even rent out the lower floors of the buildings anymore because it is free to just set up in the street so you see a lot of empty buildings, kind of sad. Our guide told us that it is so inexpensive for him to live there I think he pays about $400 a year for his apartment. He has a job as a tour guide, that is why he is still there otherwise he would have left like most of the other young people do.

The attraction here is the Shibaozhai Temple, a dramatic 12-story, red temple that they describe as “the Pearl of the Yangtze.” It was built in 1650, and the legend is that the higher you ascend, the more your prayers will be answered. It’s pretty cool how it was built without using any nails at all, and it so well preserved. As you’re climbing you see different relics and there is history inscribed on the walls of the past dynasties. The stairs are wooden, steep and creaky but easy to climb, although the rooms get smaller as you get closer to the top.

Once you get to the top, the views are very pretty. There was also a Taoist temple to go through with a nice courtyard. To get down they have built stairs so you don’t have to go backwards down the ladder like steps of the temple. In ancient times in order to get to the top of the rock that the temple is built against, they pulled people up by chains.

Since we were so busy during the land portion of our trip, the Easter Bunny couldn’t find us! So we got back to the cabin today and he left some gifts for the boys!

We had another relaxing afternoon just like yesterday, we set sail right after we got back and spent a lot of time up on the top deck and on our balcony again. Scenery wasn’t as amazing as it was yesterday but still pretty and relaxing, I even took a nap.

Dinner was a formal event, everyone dressed up and was excited for the evening. The Captain came around to say goodbye to everyone and we were sad that the cruise was coming to an end.

After dinner Rowan wanted to dress up like a Chinese Emperor, they had traditional costumes and he looked adorable! Of course I had to dress up to be the Empress and felt silly, but he enjoyed it.

Shen Nong Stream, Saturday, April 7, 2018

This morning we boarded a sightseeing vessel to sail through the spectacular narrow Lesser Three Gorge region. It’s sheer cliffs and mountains with beautiful blue water. The vessel had 2 decks, the bottom had seats 8 across in rows to the back, all surrounded by windows and a front and back outside deck. Upstairs was open air and a few seats and deck.

While he weather has been nice, it was freezing here! We were all bundled up like it was winter. But the scenery was spectacular so we had to keep going out on deck to see things they were pointing out like the hanging coffins! They were so amazing to see. Ancient coffins that are still there, they believed the higher they were, the closer to heaven so you see these coffins up on these really high cliffs. Many have been moved to museums but the ones remaining are a curious sight!

We set sail before lunch and spent the day slowly sailing through the Three Gorges so we could fully admire the beauty of each one. Everyone was either on the top observation deck or on their balcony’s. It reminded me of the Glacier Bay day on an Alaskan Cruise, very relaxing and very beautiful. They also had commentary during the day explaining what we were seeing and history.

We also saw the famous gorge that is shown on the back of their 10 yuan bill. This was probably my favorite day on the cruise so far with the warm weather, the beauty and relaxing in it.

Another fabulous dinner and then everyone heads over to the Yangtze Bar for an after dinner drink and to see the show. Remember this isn’t like an ocean cruise, there isn’t much else to do at night. There is a majong room, a game room with felt tables and a cinema, so there are other options.

Three Gorges Dam, Sandouping, April 6, 2018

We were very excited to wake up this morning with a new day ahead of us but were still tired from the day before so had a relaxing morning. We explored the whole ship and it was a beautiful day so we sat on our balcony and on the top observation deck of the ship and even napped on a lounge chair. Finally a day to relax after running around for almost 2 weeks.

This afternoon we went to the Three Gorges Dam, the world’s largest hydroelectric project. It cost $28 billion and took 17 years to build. was started in 1994. It is still very controversial, as it controlled flooding on the Yangtze while drowning towns and archaeological sites, and displacing more than 1.3 million people.

It was pretty cool seeing the dams, the locks and the hydroelectric power station, this is China’s largest construction project since the Great Wall!

It was so nice coming back to the ship and our cabin, familiarity and comfort after moving around every few days. Cocktails and a shower and we were ready for the evening. They had a really nice show in the Yangtze Lounge after dinner, Chinese Dynasties. It showed the costumes and customs through the ages. It was nice to recognize all the staff dressed up and on stage. It was so adorable how they would wave to the boys as they walked by.

Shanghai, Wednesday, April 4, 2018

Since the weather wasn’t great, we decided to do some shopping. The boys wanted to go to one of the many electronic markets in the city.

We spent a while there while they went from stall to stall haggling until they were happy with the price they got. I have to admit that they are really good at haggling, they learned on the last few trips and it came back quick! When it is something they want and they have a limited amount of money that can be very determined. They were adorable with their calculators in hand and mixture of the limited Mandarin they have learned and the vendors limited English, but they were able to do it. Both of them came out very happy!

Wandering around the city was dizzying but what caught my eye everywhere were the food stalls. The variety and smells of each place made me want to try each one but I had to practice moderation….not easy to do here.

We had to ride the Maglev high speed train while we were here. It runs on magnets and goes up to 267 MPH! In Shanghai it just goes back and forth to the airport, about 19 miles in 7 minutes. The project cost 1.58 Billion to build and is considered one of the safest methods of transportation. It’s on a raised track and it pretty quiet, until you pass the other Maglev on the other track going in the opposite direction…almost sounds like a pop, makes you jump and you almost don’t see it go by, it’s just a second long blur. Boys really loved it!

Shanghai’s metro is easy but crowded. But during the crazy rush hours in Shanghai it saves lots of time. It was fun people watching….or watching people stare at their phones!

China has government cameras EVERYWHERE, on the streets, metro, and even in public cars and shuttles. You see the signs reminding you that you are being watched and you will be punished if you are caught doing something wrong. Big Brother IS watching!

We tried twice, once in the morning and once in the evening, to see the city from the observation deck of the Shanghai Tower…both times it was shrouded in low clouds! The Shanghai Tower is the second tallest building in the world right now at 2,073 feet and 127 floors above the ground. It has the Jin Mao Tower on one side and the Shanghai World Financial Center on the other. The design is unique as the exterior spirals upwards, to help offset winds, and there is an inner tube as well, this acts as an insulator.

Pretty cool airport like Beijing’s.

Fly to Yichang, Yangtze River Cruise, Thursday, April 5, 2018

I can’t think of a better way to experience the Yangtze River than on a “slow boat to China”. The Yangtze region is the cradle of ancient Chinese civilization. It starts in Tibet and flows the entire width of China until it empties into the East China Sea in Shanghai. At almost 4,000 miles, it’s Asias longest river and the third longest in the world, after the Nile and the Amazon.

I thought this would be a great way to relax after a very busy 10 days exploring China on land. We woke up in Shanghai this morning to cold dreary weather and had to catch a 7:30 AM flight to Yichang. Getting up at 3:30 in the morning was not fun but we were excited to start another new adventure. The flight was short, a little under two hours on an old Shanghai Airlines plane. We got into the town of Yichang and had some time before boarding the ship. Since it was still cold and rainy, we went to a pretty cool museum, had an amazing spicy Sichuan lunch and then had massages.

It was called a foot massage for an hour and a half, but it was way more than that. We started out in a private room for the four of us with amazing reclining chairs. They brought in wooden barrel buckets with hot water and all kinds of aromatics in the water. While we soaked our feet, we got a very good shoulder neck and arm massage. Then we sat back in the recliner‘s and they covered us with comforters, brought us hot green tea and a plate of snacks. They dried our feet and then proceeded to massage them for at least 45 minutes. We soaked them again then laid back in the recliner while we got a leg massage. This was one of the best massage experiences I’ve ever had, even better than in Thailand or Cambodia!

This is all the information about the cruise:

We made our way to the port, and boarded the ship. We are on the Victoria Jenna by Victoria Cruise Lines. There are a little under 200 cabins and it was very pretty. Nothing like ocean cruises and larger than European river cruises. There are 6 decks and it is laid out very nicely. Our cabins were perfect, not too small, great size balcony and bathroom with a big tub, desk and sitting area. Our two cabins were across the hall from each other so we just went back and forth between them and had a balcony on each side so whichever view was better was where we sat.

We were in the Executive Club called the Top of the Yangtze, similar to a club level category at a hotel. On the top deck, half of the ship was just for us. It is where we ate all three meals and had snacks available all day and happy hour before dinner plus a lot of other benefits. It was so much better than the main dining room which was a bit hectic, and all the meals there are buffet style. The food was good there too, mostly Chinese but a few Western choices as well. We just like how calm and quiet it was at the Top of the Yangtze and having table service with the same servers for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

It was an early night, we were so tired from getting up so early and excited for the next day!

Dumplings, Shanghai, Tuesday, April 3, 2018

Xiao Long Bao are a dream come true….Chinese comfort food at its best. I have been looking forward to trying these for months! These Shanghai style steamed dumplings are infamous, they have food tours dedicated just to these tender pleated dough purses with porky filling, and rich, ginger-laced broth. There are other fillings too like pork and crab together, crab alone and others but these are the most popular.

So how do you eat it? You must know how or you will burn your mouth with the hot broth inside. Pick up the dumpling with chopsticks and place it on a tiny dumpling sized bowl or soup spoon. Poke a small hole at the top with a chopstick. Carefully slurp out the hot soup or pour it into the bowl and sip it from there. Finish off the dumpling by eating it straight or first dunking it in the dipping sauce. The taste is incredible! We started with 3 orders of 12 dumplings, one pork, one crab and the other a combo. Ice cold beer was the perfect pairing and the willingness to make a mess!

Pork

Dumpling bowl

Pork and Crab

Crab

Those went pretty quick so we ordered two more sets and they were gone just as quick. With the chilly, misty day we had, it was perfect!

Shanghai, April 3, 2018

We drove to Shanghai after the Tea Plantation and what a change! Total shack to the system coming from cities that are thousands of years old to a city that is less than 30 years old. I have to say that it is nice to see modern conveniences, especially toilets with toilet paper, soap and hand towels!! The things you take for granted….

We walked the infamous Bund, a street along the Huang Pu river lined with colonial buildings of European architecture. You feel like you are strolling down the boulevards of Paris or Vienna except that you see the Chinese rather than Roman alphabet on the signs. You can almost feel the Western influences of the old days but it is the modern Wall Street of the East. Not to minimize the beauty of this area but one look across the Huang Pu and young modern China smacks you in the face. Pudong and it’s record breaking skyscrapers provides a surreal skyline that makes your jaw drop. It looks like a photoshopped futuristic city with its colors and shapes but it is actually real!

The boys just walked around with their eyes pointed up, we had to make sure they didn’t miss a step or fall! It was a beautiful evening and we enjoyed strolling and taking in the sights the Shanghai.

I found a new kind of noodle that I’ve never had before, believe it or not. The hotel called them Shanghai Noodles but I’m sure there is a specific name for them so I took a picture of the Chinese name and hopefully can get the actual name of these noodles. They taste exactly like a noodle except they look like sliced potatoes, they have the same texture and thick chew to them as noodles do. This is on my list of new recipes to master!

Hangzhou, Tuesday, April 3, 2018

The weather was absolutely gorgeous today, so it was a good day to visit a Tea Plantation. This area gets a lot of rain so they have many tea plantations that grow green tea. This area is known for its Dragon Well Green Tea, supposed to be the best Chinese green tea.

We wandered through the rows of tea plants in the fields and interacted with the ladies who pick the tea leaves. They were very friendly and smiling at us and showing us their baskets of leaves. Only women pick the leaves because of their smaller fingers. They also only allow the tea plants to stay small like bushes, if they grow into trees much of the energy is put into the trunk and not all into the leaves.

The buildings at the Plantation were very picturesque with saturated colors and detail. There were ponds with koi and many places to sit and admire it all. We relaxed while the boys played with koi and turtles.

There were abandoned puppies found at the plantation so they brought them out for the boys to play with. I think this was the highlight of the visit for the boys! They must have been less than a week old, their eyes weren’t even open yet. To make things even more excited, they asked the boys to feed them with bottles!

We learned about how they make the tea, it’s benefits and how to make and drink it properly. The tea is really tasty and it was a nice way to spend the morning, surrounded by the green fields in the middle of a Chinese garden, warm sun on your back, and green tea in your hand.

Wuxi to Hangzhou, Monday, April 2, 2018

There is a huge freshwater lake in Wuxi named Lake Taihu. It is well known for its beautiful freshwater pearls that come in many colors and are prized around the world. The boys had fun learning about how they grow and they were allowed to take out some of the tiny ones they use for creams and other products but not jewelry.

We arrived at Hangzhou in the afternoon, it is very green and lush such a drastic change from Beijing! Marco Polo called Hangzhou “the finest, most splendid city in the world….where so many pleasures may be found that one fancies oneself to be in Paradise”. It was the capital in the 12th century and it is on the back of their 1 yuan bill. The center of it all is West Lake, it is exactly what you see in lakeside pictures of China. It’s very calm and surrounded on three sides by verdant green mountains covered in tea trees.

All around the lake there are temples, pagodas, gardens and arched bridges, it is so peaceful. We took a boat ride for about a half an hour and glided past all the sights and many other boats.

The weather was a little misty but not raining. While I would have rather seen it on a clear day, it gave the lake an ethereal feel that added to the magic. Hangzhou is also the area where many locals go to honeymoon and many go just for a weekend getaway. Hangzhou gets a lot of rain which makes it so pretty.